LUTZ — The area’s food scene is sizzling, and the latest offering is a sports bar with a standout concept. Everything is made from scratch — and it’s a cheat day champion.
Sarasota-based Food + Beer opened its eighth location at 25026 Wesley Chapel Blvd. on Black Friday (Nov. 28). Previously Shuckin’ Shack Oyster Bar, it is on the opposite side of the same building as Chicken Salad Chick.
The atmosphere
We brought big appetites and calorie blinders to sample their offerings. Our first impression wasn’t great. A football game was on (It is a sports bar, after all) and the volume was overwhelming. But we concede to having hit the turn-it-down stage of life.
Without a visible host or stand, it wasn’t initially clear whether we should wait to be seated. With an assist from a fellow customer, we were soon settled and eager to dive in.
As far as the menu goes, founding friends Mike Whalen and Casey Daniels have threaded the needle.
The descriptions (and online photos) are mouthwatering. It offers the typical foods served at a sports bar: fried food, sandwiches, burgers, wings, wraps, but with atypical flavor. They also serve salads and bowls.
The drinks
Purely for research purposes, we sampled their libations. Their beer list was not as extensive as one might hope for a place with beer in its name, so we opted for cocktails.
The Old Fashioned connoisseur of our group, who commented on the absence of a decent one in our area, was not disappointed by Fashion Over Function.
We also had vodka concoctions, one with lemon and blackberry liqueur served over crushed ice (Let’s Get Ready to Bramble) and one with lemon, strawberry, mint and champagne (Strawberry Feels Spritz).
They were light and refreshing, but off by a fraction. Let’s Get Ready to Bramble had a slightly unappealing aftertaste and Strawberry Feels Spritz was dominated by mint and lacking in strawberry flavor.
The food
The fresh bold flavors made it evident that everything was made from scratch. The french fries evoked memories of childhood, when mother’s hand cut potatoes into slender rectangles were deep fried in a cast-iron skillet.
The Crab Rangoon Mozzarella Sticks were light with a satisfying crunch. Despite a creamy, gooey center, they were not overly greasy, but the absence of any crab flavor was disappointing.
The Miami native of our group, who knows her way around a Cuban sandwich, was thoroughly impressed by the Cuban Eggrolls. Stuffed with mojo pork, ham, pickles and Swiss cheese, they were crispy, light and bursting with flavor, each ingredient distinct.
We could have eaten the accompanying mojo mustard dipping sauce by itself with a spoon, but the eggrolls were delicious with or without.
We truly fell in love over entrees.
The Kona Bleu burger had an intriguing twist with a Kona coffee rub. The rub enhanced the flavor of the meat, and the burger was perfectly juicy.
Legalize Marinara is fried chicken on a garlic hoagie, smothered with marinara and mozzarella cheese. We were impressed that despite the sauce, the chicken remained crispy, the bread wasn’t soggy, and the flavors were clearly defined.
The G.O.A.T. Grilled Cheese was an ooey, gooey masterpiece. Crispy bacon was married to pepper jack and goat cheese in the center, and while we anticipated that it might be overly rich, it was perfectly balanced. The outside was crusted with parmesan cheese, which made for an extra crispy sandwich and a unique twist.
The dessert lineup was too enticing to pass up. The Bananas Foster Ice Cream Sandwich, flambéed at the table with Misguided Red Sky Rum, is only for those 21 or older. The contrast between the cold ice cream and the resulting warm sauce was exciting to our palates.
The Red Velvet Oreos are deep fried in red velvet waffle batter and topped with cream cheese icing. They were sinfully divine.
Pro tip
If you’re going for dinner, skip lunch. The portions are large. Even if you can’t finish, no worries. The G.O.A.T., french fries and Brussel sprouts reheated beautifully the next day in the air fryer.
The verdict
Go.
Just don’t tell your cardiologist.
We found it to be a great place to get a quality meal without feeling the need to dress up. Don’t expect to engage in a lot of conversation, but it seems like an ideal spot to watch the Bucs defeat the Panthers.
We’ll definitely be back. The service was stellar and there are too many tempting dishes left for us to try, including the PBR fried pickles, the Nashville gator bites, the Malibu Barbie Wrap, the Greek Life Bowl, The Florida Man and the Big Mick Challenge.
