WESLEY CHAPEL — Finding good vegan food can be a challenge. There are few restaurants devoted to it, and one place you certainly wouldn’t expect to find it is at a container park better known for burgers, wings, fries, burritos and other indulgent fare.
But at Krate at the Grove, Green Table is an oasis for the meat averse.
Owner Edson Benzan-Monteiro recently opened the restaurant in the former Shake-A-Salad space, serving a streamlined menu of plant-based food for vegans, vegetarians and anyone looking for a healthier meal.
For Benzan-Monteiro, Green Table is a labor of love. He still works a 9-to-5 job, but spends many of his evenings at the restaurant, inspired by a lifestyle change that changed his life.
He adopted a plant-based diet eight years ago to improve his health.
“Once I went down the rabbit hole of nutrition and veganism, I started realizing the impact that it had on the environment, on the animals and on human beings,” he said. “That kind of solidified my decision.”
Finding places to eat, however, wasn’t easy.
One day, he discovered the Green Table food truck in Brandon and saw an opportunity.
“I thought, ‘You know what? I could do this,’” he said. “I could serve this food all day.”
He and his partner, Vanessa, bought into the business and brought it to their own backyard in Wesley Chapel. His goal was to mimic what he had noticed on a recent to trip to New York, where he saw vegan food on almost every corner.
“This gives the vegan community another option other than the four or five that is spread out throughout the greater Tampa Bay area,” he said.
The Menu
As a Wisconsin-bred fan of bratwurst, burgers, cheese and milk, I’m a terrible candidate for a vegan lifestyle. But I can appreciate those who choose it and for whom it is personal, like Benzan-Monteiro.
Green Table was a pleasant surprise.
I ordered the gyro, fries, cauliflower wings and Biscotti shake.
The gyro, made with seitan — a wheat-gluten protein also used in the Cuban and Philly sandwiches — was well seasoned and a big enough portion to be shared. Wrapped in a pita with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and house-made tzatziki, it was surprisingly convincing without trying too hard to be meat.
Bonus: For the protein crazies out there, it has 25 grams of protein per 100 grams, meaning the gyro had roughly 40 grams of protein.
“It is one of the best servings of protein that you can have, because it is sodium-free, sugar-free, no cholesterol,” Benzan-Monteiro said.
The burgers use Impossible Burger patties, while the chicken sandwiches feature a blend of pea protein and seitan. Other menu offerings include a Reuben with grilled tempeh — soy-based, high-protein meat substitute — on marble rye with vegan Swiss, sauerkraut and house-made Thousand Island dressing.
Naturally, salads are also served, though you might want to check on the availability before visiting.
The Sides
The fries were crisp and excellent. The cauliflower wings, available with Buffalo or barbecue sauce, were tasty, though I’d have preferred them a little firmer.
Pro Tip
There is no acceptable replacement for real ice cream or custard, although my older and more wonky stomach is begging for more lactose moderation. But the Biscotti shake, made with oat milk, was outstanding. Even the dairy-free whipped topping held its texture well. For the lactose-wary, you can’t go wrong with any of the Green Table shakes, and they have ice cream as well.
Fun Fact
Beyond vegan food, Benzan-Monteiro has another passion: soccer.
His parents were born in Cape Verde, and he attended the country’s World Cup match against Spain. Watching Cape Verde become one of the darlings of the tournament was a thrill for the former college soccer player and coach.
Final Verdict
Benzan-Monteiro isn’t trying to convert anyone to veganism. But if you’re interested, it’s worth stopping by. You might be surprised.
Green Table is located at KRATE at the Grove. Hours are noon-7 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, noon-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. on Sunday. It is closed on Thursdays. For more information, visit GreenTableWC.com.